Ema datshi is chilli and cheese, not a polite side. If you have only read our Kolkata food guide, start again: this is a different kitchen. r/BhutanTravels asks about vegetarian and dietary rules every month. The short answer is yes, if you say so on night one.

The plate you will actually meet
- Ema datshi — green or dried red chilli in a soft cheese sauce. National dish.
- Kewa datshi — potato and cheese. The milder cousin.
- Red rice — nutty, served at almost every lunch.
- Momos — Tibetan-style dumplings, veg or meat.
- Suja — butter tea. Sip; do not treat it like Thai iced tea.
Farmhouse nights (see warm welcomes) are where the food is best. Hotel buffets exist; they are not the story.
Spice and vegetarian meals
Airfare does not include meals. A land quote lists half-board or full-board in Thai baht. Say chilli-mild or vegetarian before the programme is written so the kitchen hears it on night one.
Drink bottled or boiled water. Street meat is rarer than in Bangkok; the heat comes from the chilli, not from a wok of oil. Pair a Punakha lunch with the dzong.


